7 min read
Black Tie Wedding Guide for the Modern Groom
What does black tie mean for a groom?
Black tie means a dinner jacket in black or midnight blue with satin or grosgrain facings, matching trousers with a side braid, a formal shirt with French cuffs, a hand-tied bow tie, a cummerbund or evening waistcoat, and polished or patent leather shoes.
The fixed elements
These are the parts of black tie that are not negotiable if the dress code is to mean anything.
- —A dinner jacket in black or midnight blue with faced lapels
- —Trousers with a matching braid down the outside seam
- —A formal shirt with French cuffs and a spread or wing collar
- —A hand-tied bow tie in the same material as the lapel facing
- —A waist covering: cummerbund or low-cut evening waistcoat
- —Highly polished or patent leather shoes
Where you have freedom
Lapel shape — peak or shawl — is a matter of face shape and preference. Midnight blue is entirely correct and often better on camera. Velvet is permissible for the reception. Bib style, button material and lining are all yours to choose.
The things that go wrong
A pre-tied bow tie, a long tie with a dinner jacket, a black business suit standing in for a tuxedo, a shirt with a standard barrel cuff, and no waist covering at all. Each of these is immediately visible in photographs.
Fit for evening dress
Evening tailoring is less forgiving than a business suit. The jacket should close cleanly without strain, the trousers should sit at the natural waist and the shirt collar should meet the tie without gapping. This is where an individually made garment separates itself completely from a rental.